Friday, November 21, 2008

Memo #3 On to Isan

Halloh. I met Pen in Bkk. The plan was to go to her families village in eastern Thailand and celebrate her birthday. Then up to Surin for the elephant roundup. The bus went closer to her village than the train. I hate Thai busses but agreed. The ride wasn't frightening like the trips in the mountainous north. The driver stopped early to buy two red bulls to guzzle. Not a good sign. He dozed off later. I noticed when he began changing lanes for no apparent reason. I could see his face in the rearview from my seat. I walked forward and tapped him awake. He adjusted the mirror so I could no longer see him.
Her family is poor. Both of her parents are worn out farmers. Her poor old dad cuts rice for $5 a day. Her mother looks after Pens three children and another left there by a friend. Pen has an older brother that lives there too. His wife ran off with another man. He was heartbroken, quit his job and became a drunk.
I soon I realised that I was expected to buy all the food and alcohol as long as I visited. I fed her family and many of the neighbors. I spent about $100 on the first nights party and Pens birthday the next day. By the second day, her father wouldn't look at me. I don't know if he was insulted at the expensive meat and liquor Pen chose, or if he was embarrassed that he couln't afford such a spread.
There wasn't room for me at the house so I was sent to the local motel. Pen called it 'the resort'. It was five motel rooms in a cement building nearby. Not one person the entire time offered even a casual 'thank you'. By the third morning, I was so fed up, I packed my bags on grabbed the first Sawngthaw back into town. A Sawngtaw is a covered pickup truck with rows of seats in back. I got into Pa Sat and caught a local bus to Surin. A clean getaway!
The second photo is Pen frying some grasshoppers. They were 'harvested' right on the family property. They tasted ok. The legs don't chew easily. Pens brother offer to cook rat. I said if he cooked it I would eat some. He was always too drunk to accomplish much of anything.
This is brother No Aay posing.
The last photo is some of group having a fine time.
Bye for now, Ducklass
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