Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Rabbit island
Heres David smoking and wading. He served three tours in the American Viet war as a flight engineer on a Chinook helecoptor. Hes got many scars from shrapnel wounds. When I asked how many purple hearts he earned, he just laughed.
Mikes first snorkel lesson. This big piece of ice arrived from the mainland on the long tail boat you see in the distance. It will be consumed at one of the five family owned 'bamboo hut 'resorts' on the island. There are photos from the previous Rabbit island visit in October or November.
Kep
Mike and I reconnected with Daley. The fellow in red is Berney (Bernard) from Germany. He and David have been traveling together. They were on the big climb. They were on a day trip from Kampot to visit Kep.
We're having a meal at a local eatery before they bus back. Three of five of the meals arrived as ordered. David and Berney came back on the next mornings bus to go to Rabbit island with Mike and Daley and me.
Bokors future
The 20 mile old road up to Bokor is being completely rebuilt. Why? To build a new casino and housing development of course. Construction is under way.
Back in the truck for the one hour ride back to the trail head. At the trail head, our guide told us that usually a ride all the way down is not allowed because of the on going construction. But today!, it would be possible to ride in truck to the bottom for only $2! The four oldsters and one Chech youngster jumped at the chance.
This poor gecko died or was squashed on the bus station wall and is becoming a skeleton fossil.
The casino
The big climb 2
There are few rangers to protect the park forest from illegal logging. I don't know how cutting equipment could have been carried up there, and I don't know why this roughly cut beams were left behind. This last photo is the youngsters waiting for the oldsters. We had a one hour bone jarring ride in the back of this truck still to go.
Kampot 3 and the big climb
I came back here specially to make the climb to Bokor Hill station. It was the worst tour I have ever taken. Bokor was built by the French in the 1920's by forced labourers. Many died building the casino, Catholic church and Royal palace and other buildings. The French chose this loacation because of the 3,000 elevation. It is noticably cooler than at sea level. Everything was abandoned long ago. There was a fierce two month battle there between the Vietnamese and the Khmer Rouge in 1979 Viet invasion.
There were two groups that day. Each group was escorted by a park ranger armed with an AK 47. I had heard, to protect the hikers from bandits, or tigers.
Our group was about 13 people from several countries. I soon divided the group into young and old. The trip was up hill almost all the way. Much of it climbing up washed out gullies. Our group left second about 15 minutes after the first group. Immediately, we became separated, the youngsters streaking off up the mountain. Our guide stayed back with the oldsters. After awhile I became separated from everyone. As the trail became narrower I began to fear I was lost. At one of the flat bits, I heard voices. Khmer voices. Two groups of men passed me. Many were wearing backpacks fashioned from woven plastic gunny bags. I at least was reassured I was on the trail but worried I'd be beat up, robbed, or worse.
I struggled ever upward. Being out of shape, overweight and on beta blockers didn't help. I heard more voices ahead. I had caught up with the first goup, whose guide had kept them together going at the slowest persons pace.
The end wasn't the end but at the road to the top. Berney, David and two Australians arrive about 30 minutes after me.
Kampot 2
Kampot
Halloh! Kampot is a sleepy little town on the Prek Kampong bay. Before Sihanoukville was built it was the only salt water port in Cambodia. This poor old bridge was blown up and repaired twice during the wars of the 1970's. The tourist office is unused.
Mike and I spent two nights here. It is the start point for the big hike up to Bokor.
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